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I have for over a week now, been fighting with my water parameters. Actually, the only one that's been giving me trouble is my ammonia. I of course went online to get advice, suggestions and support through one of my go-to info places. AFRICAN CICLIDS WORLD This is a wonderful community of like minded Cichlid enthusiasts sharing their knowledge and experience. I heartfully thank all who helped me get a handle on this issue!
Even when you "think you know it all" I have learned that times change, as do processes, discoveries are made and they all add up to moving on with the times. Some steadfast rules are now not so steadfast as newer innovated methods are continually being developed. With anything you really need to be open to change or you will be left behind.
These are the changes I made to rectify my ammonia spike.
My overstocked tank - was overstocked. I had 47 Cichlids in my 75 gallon community and now I have 33. Mind you I have a couple breeding upstairs that will be returning. Then I'll take the next group up to the playroom.
I removed 14 fish. I sold 8 and kept 6 as they were juveniles and I had a place for them. The 8 that I sold were the largest and most aggressive in my community so I figured I'd start with them. They were also my most prolific breeders and I didn't want anymore Red Top Zebra fry.
Next I purchased a EHEIM classic 250 canister filter. I had many suggestions as to what brand, size etc. I personally love the Eheim Brand. They are actually the company that developed the first canister filter system. It came all set up and was so simple to install I had it up and running in less than 15 minutes. I am so happy with my purchase that I have decided to get another one for my 55 gallon juvenile community.
I have been doing 30-40% water changes every other day and testing my water every morning except on water change day, and every evening. It is vitally important for your fish to keep a close eye on your water parameters. Your tanks can be crystal clear and yet it may be a death trap at the same time. Test, test, test - best knowledge you can glean for the health and safety of your Cichlids. I encourage you to invest in a FRESH WATER TEST KIT. It will be money well spent considering the money we invest in this hobby.
I have also been adding a cycling product to encourage bacteria development and a few drops of prime as well during my water changes. I have a couple tanks running in the basement holding my pond fish. I rinsed off the filthy filters from them (yes in tank water) and slid them into my Marineland Emperor 400 HOB filtration system of which I have two running besides my new canister.
This morning I did my water change of 40% vacuumed the visible waste and treated the new water as always. I am happy to see a change in my water parameters. There is a cycle my water parameters must go through to be rid of all three of these elements. Those being ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The first two are toxic and detrimental to the health of your fish. Nitrate in high doses can be just as dangerous but it can be used up by plant life and removed through water changes. Also nitrates are removed by specific bio media and some chemical filtration as well so it can be managed, keeping it at a safe level until you are rid of it.
My tests are showing a decrease in ammonia, which then translates to in increase of nitrites. This is part of the cycle and must go through this process to be eliminated completely. From nitrites as they lower the nitrates increase. The only sure way of ridding your aquarium of the two nites is through repeated water changes and water testing to monitor your progress. It takes time but all good things right?
To understand the cycle
Even when you "think you know it all" I have learned that times change, as do processes, discoveries are made and they all add up to moving on with the times. Some steadfast rules are now not so steadfast as newer innovated methods are continually being developed. With anything you really need to be open to change or you will be left behind.
These are the changes I made to rectify my ammonia spike.
My overstocked tank - was overstocked. I had 47 Cichlids in my 75 gallon community and now I have 33. Mind you I have a couple breeding upstairs that will be returning. Then I'll take the next group up to the playroom.
I removed 14 fish. I sold 8 and kept 6 as they were juveniles and I had a place for them. The 8 that I sold were the largest and most aggressive in my community so I figured I'd start with them. They were also my most prolific breeders and I didn't want anymore Red Top Zebra fry.
Next I purchased a EHEIM classic 250 canister filter. I had many suggestions as to what brand, size etc. I personally love the Eheim Brand. They are actually the company that developed the first canister filter system. It came all set up and was so simple to install I had it up and running in less than 15 minutes. I am so happy with my purchase that I have decided to get another one for my 55 gallon juvenile community.
I have been doing 30-40% water changes every other day and testing my water every morning except on water change day, and every evening. It is vitally important for your fish to keep a close eye on your water parameters. Your tanks can be crystal clear and yet it may be a death trap at the same time. Test, test, test - best knowledge you can glean for the health and safety of your Cichlids. I encourage you to invest in a FRESH WATER TEST KIT. It will be money well spent considering the money we invest in this hobby.
I have also been adding a cycling product to encourage bacteria development and a few drops of prime as well during my water changes. I have a couple tanks running in the basement holding my pond fish. I rinsed off the filthy filters from them (yes in tank water) and slid them into my Marineland Emperor 400 HOB filtration system of which I have two running besides my new canister.
This morning I did my water change of 40% vacuumed the visible waste and treated the new water as always. I am happy to see a change in my water parameters. There is a cycle my water parameters must go through to be rid of all three of these elements. Those being ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The first two are toxic and detrimental to the health of your fish. Nitrate in high doses can be just as dangerous but it can be used up by plant life and removed through water changes. Also nitrates are removed by specific bio media and some chemical filtration as well so it can be managed, keeping it at a safe level until you are rid of it.
My tests are showing a decrease in ammonia, which then translates to in increase of nitrites. This is part of the cycle and must go through this process to be eliminated completely. From nitrites as they lower the nitrates increase. The only sure way of ridding your aquarium of the two nites is through repeated water changes and water testing to monitor your progress. It takes time but all good things right?
To understand the cycle
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